Day 22, Oct 20: Palas de Rei to Ribadiso, 15.3mi

Today dawned chilly with some wind, but sunny.  Anything was better than the incessant rain of yesterday; I felt very glad to have that behind me and the forecast is clear and sunny for the next several days.  I was also thankful to have had that tough experience.  We always grow more when we are stretched and uncomfortable at times.

My emotional self just felt a little raw this morning, I think after the long day of not being able to control my circumstances, and being a little nervous/unsettled that whole time, today I felt slightly tired in my head.  I just let it be, and walked.  It is settling to walk, I’ve experienced and now believe it.  I hope to implement this more in my normal life.  I’m a runner, so I don’t take a lot of intentional walks.  I think I will do it more, now.

I went into an old stone chapel that was right above my albergue, and said a prayer of thanks for my safety and good health, then headed out.  As I walked down some steps, I saw a shop to my right that was selling ponchos.  Though the forecast is nice for the next 4-5 days, I am sure I will have another need for rain protection, and my ripped red poncho is in the trash!  I bought a heavier-duty one that has actual sleeves; we’ll see how it does!

On the road for real, about 9am.  It’s nice to have some shorter walking days, now, I can leave later and still make it to my destination at a very reasonable time in the late afternoon.  With bigger cities, it’s fun to have a good number of hours to look around; in the smaller towns, looking around doesn’t take much time and there’s not a lot to do…rest and read, those are good things, I know, just not my default!

Today my guidebook showed I would be walking through a medium-sized city called Melide around mid-day, and it is known for it’s octopus dish called “pulpo” (which means octopus in Spanish).  I planned to stop and try some, why not?

I walked into town right at noon, found one of the “Pulperias” (a place that specifically serves octopus) that was suggested in my book, and had a seat.  I ordered pulpo and roasted green peppers called “pimientos“.  I was delighted with the meal; the octopus was delicious and not very rubbery, as I had thought it would be.  I think it was initially boiled, then probably sauteed in a butter sauce, and sprinkled with coarse salt and paprika.  There were only two bites that were a little weird in texture, a little too soft and….octopus-y!  haha!

"Pulpo", a very typical Galacian dish. Some cities I've passed through are more known for it than others. The dish I had in Melide was very good!
“Pulpo”, a very typical Galacian dish. Some cities I’ve passed through are more known for it than others. The dish I had in the city of Melide was very good!

 

These roasted peppers are so good! I think they are just tossed in olive oil and coarse salt; a very yummy way to get my greens!
These roasted peppers are so good! I think they are just tossed in olive oil and coarse salt; a very yummy way to get my greens!

 

I walked slowly through Melide, not in a rush and letting my big lunch settle a little.  I went into a Pharmacy for ibuprofen (in case my foot acts up, so far it’s doing great though), and it only cost 2 euros.  I am surprised at the affordability of this trip.  Nothing has been dirt-cheap, but compared to the US, most prices of food, lodging, even simple medications are very reasonable and allows for someone of “moderate means” to be able to spend a month away from home and work!

The rest of my afternoon was nice; nothing outstanding to note.  I walked into the small suburb of Ribadiso around 3:30 and chose a small albergue with only 4 beds to a room.  I do seem to like the smaller albergues better, usually.  They are not standard, though, and there are always many factors so sometimes it “backfires”!  My room with 3 other women were all very nice, but included another loud snore-r.  Tonight would be a bit of a rough sleep-night!

In my albergue, I met a gal around my age who is Korean but was born in and lives/works in Germany.  She speaks 3 languages- Korean, a couple German dialects, and English very well.  Again, impressed.  A very sweet woman with a calming presence, with whom I ate dinner and would reconnect a couple times on the way to and in Santiago.  Was glad to have her company.  I was working on a blog before we went to dinner, and later I took a photo with her.  She gently and kindly asked me if I would make sure not to post it on my blog, as she does not like the internet very much.  So I do not mention her name or post our photo, to respect that, but she was a lovely and calming presence in my last days leading up to Santiago.

 

A beautiful morning, following the full day of rain. The sun smiled down on the wet earth and we were all glad!
A beautiful morning, following the full day of rain. The sun smiled down on the wet earth and we were all glad!

 

A shot of a very typcial Camino outdoor cafe or rest/snack stop in the smaller towns that we walk through. One can find options for food, drinks and a place to rest usually about every 2-8k. There definitely are longer stretches without, but much of the Camino is well-stocked with people wanting (and needing) to make a living off all the foot traffic.
A shot of a very typical Camino outdoor cafe or rest/snack stop in the smaller towns that we walk through. One can find options for food, drinks and a place to rest usually about every 2-5km.  There definitely are longer stretches without, but much of the Camino is well-stocked with people wanting (and needing) to make a living off all the foot traffic.

 

A photo looking at the back of the albergue I stayed in tonight in Ribadiso. It is surrounded by beautiful countryside, including some cows that were grazing right up next to the cafe/restaurant there!
A photo looking at the back of the albergue I stayed in tonight in Ribadiso. It is surrounded by beautiful countryside, including some cows that were grazing right up next to the cafe/restaurant there!

 

Some impressive-sized pumpkins growing in a garden near the albergue. Being here, away from my routines and American holiday marketing in stores, I have kind of forgotten it will be Halloween soon. These pumpkins are less jack-o-latern material and more fall produce; beautiful and nutrient-rich.
Some impressive-sized pumpkins growing in a garden near the albergue. Being here, away from my routines and American holiday marketing in stores, I have kind of forgotten it will be Halloween soon. These pumpkins are less jack-o-latern material and more fall produce; beautiful and nutrient-rich.

 


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