Day 27, Oct 25: Negreira to Dumbria, 27.5mi

The time changed here in Spain last night!  Unexpectedly, to me.  My watch was an hour off when I awoke  (the time on my phone read correctly).  I changed my watch and didn’t think much of it.  It was lighter, though, which made getting up and going out much easier.  There was some fog, but the sun was up – it made for a lovely, peaceful walking setting for the first hour.

The time changed last night, so it was lighter this morning when I left at 8:30am.  The fog was lifting as the sun brightened; beautiful!

The time changed last night, so it was lighter this morning when I left at 8:30am. The fog was lifting as the sun brightened; beautiful!

 

Today was a beautiful sunny day, no rain forecasted at all.  I planned to take advantage of this by walking long today, and minimizing my hours in the predicted rain tomorrow.  I haven’t walked a very long day in a while, and was looking forward to it!  I loved the sun, and appreciated hour after hour to myself to think about some things I wanted to ponder about my return home.

 

I stopped in the town that most folks were stopping in today, Olveiroa, about 4:30 to have a snack and check my map.  I had about 12k to go to the destination I wanted to make today, Dumbria.  As I walked, I noticed that the sun was lower than usual…it was still bright and warm, but lower in the sky.  Time Change!  Shoot, I hadn’t accounted for that.  I would have about an hour less of light to walk this evening.  I should still be fine, but it put a quickening in my step… I stopped at a tiny cafe to check on how many kilometers were left to where I wanted to go.  It was apparent that the owner REALLY wanted my business.  It was not only a cafe but a small Albergue.  She kept saying that I should stay here to ensure not walking in the dark.  I had 8km (less than 5 miles) to go, and she didn’t know that I am an Ironman Champion!  I can walk 8km faster than most…not to brag, but I knew I could do it.  She was really trying to get me to stay, and instead of listen to her I needed to walk!  Finally I just said, “Perdon, pero necesito ir”.  (Pardon me, but I need to go), and left.  I made it in plenty of time before the sun went down to the Albergue I intended to get to.

This stone marker is located within a roundabout on a highway.  It is where you choose whether to go to coastal town Muxia (to the right), or Finisterre (to the left).

This stone marker is located within a roundabout on a highway. It is where you choose whether to go to coastal town Muxia (to the right), or Finisterre (to the left).

 

In fact, the last hour was gorgeous.  The sunlight was magnificent, the way it was hitting the foliage, road, and huge windmills that were around on the hills (very close to me).  I was walking right by a highway that was a gorgeous road; I felt like I was walking on top of the world.  It was high up, and there was a river and many green hills rolling all around me.  There was a breeze; it rippled through the trees like someone was stroking them.  I imagined the hand of God literally “petting” the earth, his creation, these trees that would be soft to his touch.  I felt very close to Creation and very grateful to be out here, walking along, “on the top of the world” (albeit a Spanish highway), in the last hour of sunlight.

With my little iPhone camera, I couldn't capture a 360-degree photo needed to show this river that wrapped about a section of land.  I was looking down on it from a highway - a nice high view.

With my little iPhone camera, I couldn’t capture a 360-degree photo needed to show this river that wrapped about a section of land. I was looking down on it from a highway – a nice high view around 5pm.

 

I arrived at the Muncipal Albergue (the only one in this small town) just before 6pm.  I walked in, and no one was around.  It was a big place — empty?  One young man walked out of a room.  He introduced himsefl as Bacchus, from Bellingham in Washington state.  He said he’d arrived about 5 minutes before me and that no one was here.  We were the only pilgrims in this town!  We decided we’d make dinner together in the kitchen that was available.  We went into town (a couple blocks away) and bought a few things at the grocery store.  Bacchus is a “foodie” – he has a great knowledge and interest in culinary arts and food facts.  He had gathered some mushrooms (chantrelles) along his walk today.  I was hesitant to eat them, having heard that wild mushrooms can be dangerous.  He explain about 8 things that he looks for in a “safe” wild mushroom.  He seems very knowledgable and not trying to pull one over on me (why?), and he was going to eat them, so….don’t worry, Mom!  I’m still alive and typing this today (2 days later)!  We made an egg scramble with local ham, cheese, red peppers, spinach, and the chantrelle mushrooms.  It was delicious!

The last of the sunlight falling beautifully on the little local church in Dumbria, on my walk back to the albergue from the little market.

The last of the sunlight falling beautifully on the little local church in Dumbria, on my walk back to the albergue from the little market.

 

"Homemade" dinner tonight in the alberuge, by "foodie" Bacchus, from WA.  He used chantrelle mushrooms he had collected along the path today!

“Homemade” dinner tonight in the alberuge, by “foodie” Bacchus, from WA. He used chantrelle mushrooms he had collected along the path today!

 

I had a room to myself tonight, obviously.  The showers were great, everything was clean and quite new (there was a sign saying this albergue had been built in 2010).  Around 8pm, a “hospiladera” (hostess/female) came in to see who had checked in and recieve our payment.  This is new to me – all the albergures on the Camino Frances (main route) had someone who was present for most of the work-hours in the day.  Here on the coastal (Fisterra/Muxia) route, it seems many albergues just have someone come work from 8-10pm to check people, receive payments, and make sure things are going ok.

 

I slept ok; I left the door slightly open for some airflow, but incredulously it let in some mosquitoes!  I thought it would be too cold for them by now, but several buzzed in my ear while I was sleeping and woke me.  It also rained HARD in the night.  I love the sound of rain…but not really when I am anticipating walking in it the next day!  I closed the door, and fell back to sleep.

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