Day 28, Oct 26: Dumbria to Muxia, 12mi

Today was a planned shorter day, since I walked longer yesterday in the sunshine.  It rained a lot last night – I heard it – but I awoke to a partly cloudy/sunny morning.  I eased into the morning, no rush needed.  Bacchus, the only other pilgrim who stayed in the albergue last night, was getting ready to go about when I was, so we walked together.  We have a similar pace, and there are not many people  out on the coastal trail (it’s really nice!)

Around 11am, we were passing through a very small town and decided to stop for coffee and a late breakfast/early lunch.  It was divine timing because about 10-15 min after we were stopped and ordering food, the sky opened up for an absolute down-pour!  A couple other wet pilgrims entered the cafe, and we all stayed nearly an hour waiting for the heavy rain to subside.  During that time, the owners of the cafe treated us like guests – offering us special foods, giving us great service, and seeming very excited that we had stopped in.  I don’t think they get a lot of business at this point in the season, so I think in part they were just excited to have “company” – haha!  We all ordered a Spanish tortilla, made-to-order, and cafes con leches.  They also brought us some homemade sweet bread that was very much like Challah bread with sugar on top, and then after we ate they brought us “orgullo”, which is a strong liquor (sometimes flavored, sometimes not) made from re-pressed grape skins that are then distilled.  Very strong!

 

Cafe-con-leche at a tiny cafe we stopped in just before a downpour - lucky!!  ...I see a heart in this foam; do you?!

Cafe-con-leche at a tiny cafe we stopped in just before a downpour – lucky!! …I see a heart in this foam; do you?!

 

Around 12:30 we headed back out.  The rain was not going to stop any time soon, but it had lightened up considerably.

We walked for a few hours in on/off rain.  Now that I’ve experienced that one day of full rain and wind, it has been helpful to me so that “some rain” doesn’t scare me off.  In this part of the country, in this season, it is GOING to rain at times.  There is not always a cafe to duck into, and I have a rain jacket, poncho, and umbrella for these reasons.  I am getting a little better at accepting the circumstances at hand, and not being afraid to be wet for hours on end.  If I’m moving/walking, I tend to stay warm enough that comfort is really not that big of an issue.

 

I see many horreos (granaires) that are used for storing grains, corn, harvest products and keeping them off the wet ground and out of pestilance's reach.  Though most of them were built many years ago, they are still in use.  Under this one is a pile of corn that has been unloaded from it.

I see many horreos (granaires) that are used for storing grains, corn, harvest products and keeping them off the wet ground and out of pestilance’s reach. Though most of them were built many years ago, they are still in use. Under this one are baskets of corn that have been unloaded from it.

 

Arriving in Muxia - just about first sight of the ocean (caught glimpses before arriving).  The sand is surprisingly white, and the water clear and clean.  It was an overcast/rainy day, but when the sun is out I'm sure the water looks very blue!

Arriving in Muxia – just about first sight of the ocean (caught glimpses before arriving). The sand is surprisingly white, and the water clear and clean. It was an overcast/rainy day, but when the sun is out I’m sure the water looks very blue!

 

Legend has it Muxía (pronounced Moo-SHE-a) was the landing place of the stone boat that carried Virgin Mary when she arrived in Galicia to help Saint James convert the locals. The granite stones that are found near the sanctuary are said to be the remains of the Virgin Mary’s stone boat: the sail, the helm and the boat itself. Since the 12th century, pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago have travelled further on after reaching Santiago de Compostela to pay tribute to Our Lady of the Boat in Muxia (www.caminoways.com)

 

Comuxia-way-camino-de-santiago-caminoways-sanctuary

 

After dinner, my new Camino-friend Bacchus and I explored the peninsula where the famous rocks and church are located.  The rain had let up earlier in the evening, and we actually did get to see the sun set and interesting cloud formations in the dusky-night sky.  It was so beautiful to be a the edge of the mainland, looking over ocean waters.

…I walked here!  …I keep smiling about it.

 

Part of one of the 2 stone churches in Muxia.  Standing strong amidst the almost-daily riain.  Note all the moss/algae growth on the stones.

Part of one of the 2 stone churches in Muxia. Standing strong amidst the almost-daily riain. Note all the moss/algae growth on the stones.

 

Seafood stew with pulpo (octopus) at a local restaurant.  This is part of the "piligrim's menu" - it's not even a fancy or pricy dish that I ordered.  The price (10 euros) of the meal included wine, bread, vegetable soup (or salad) to start, and the main course of some kind of meat or this seafood stew.  And dessert!  Can't be beat.

Seafood stew with pulpo (octopus) at a local restaurant. This is part of the “piligrim’s menu” – it’s not even a fancy or pricy dish that I ordered. The price (10 euros) of the meal included wine, bread, vegetable soup (or salad) to start, and the main course of some kind of meat or this seafood stew. And dessert! Can’t be beat.

 

2 Responses to “Day 28, Oct 26: Dumbria to Muxia, 12mi”

  1. Diana Bunnell says:

    Dear Whitney
    I’m replying to Day 28 on your trip. It has taken all this time to successfully answer your blog and get past all the registrations, passwords etc. Thanks for taking us along with you. It has been a fascinating journey. your descriptive writing is enhanced by the great photos. We really feel that we have been on our own Camino de Santlago without the drenching rain.

    Your endurance, strength and courage are amazing

    Looking forward to your safe return.

    Diana and Kevin

    • admin says:

      Good to hear from you, thank you for the nice note Kevin and Diana! I’m sorry to hear it was difficult to be able to leave a comment on my website; I didn’t know that and may look into the process. I am almost home, and ready to be there even though I’ve had a priceless time away. Thank you for all your support and interest, as well as anyone else who has been following me. I’m so glad you have enjoyed the writing and the photos. With love, Whitney

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